Wheel Fitment & Offset Calculator
Calculate clearance and poke when changing wheel specs
Current Wheel Setup
New Wheel Setup
Inner Clearance
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Outer Position (Poke)
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How Wheel Fitment Calculations Work
Upgrading your wheels involves more than just picking a design you like. To ensure your new rims don't rub against the suspension components (inner clearance) or stick out too far from the fender (poke), you must calculate the change in physical positioning based on Width and Offset (ET).
Key Definitions
- Wheel Width: Measured from bead seat to bead seat. Changing width affects both sides of the wheel equally relative to the centerline.
- Offset (ET): The distance from the wheel's mounting surface to its true centerline. A higher positive offset moves the wheel further inward toward the car's body.
- Inner Clearance: The distance between the back of the wheel and the suspension strut. If this number decreases too much, you may need spacers.
- Poke: How far the outer edge of the wheel sits relative to the hub. Increasing poke brings the wheel closer to the fender edge for a "flush" look.
Practical Example
If you currently have an 8.0″ ET35 wheel and upgrade to a 9.0″ ET25 wheel:
- The extra 1 inch of width is split: 12.7mm added to the inside, 12.7mm added to the outside.
- The 10mm lower offset (35 to 25) pushes the whole wheel 10mm outward.
- Result: You lose 2.7mm of inner clearance (12.7mm wider – 10mm push) and the wheel pokes out 22.7mm more (12.7mm wider + 10mm push).
Safety Warnings
When using this calculator, keep these safety margins in mind:
- Suspension Gap: Generally, you want at least 3-5mm of clearance between the wheel/tire and the strut.
- Fender Clearance: Ensure the wheel doesn't poke so far that it contacts the fender during suspension compression or while turning.
- Tire Sizes: Remember that the tire width also plays a massive role. A wider wheel often requires a wider tire, which might rub even if the wheel itself clears.